Swimmers love to eat, quite a lot, and to talk about how they eat almost as much. Yet there is little discussion of food on this site.
The last time I wrote a recipe here was some years ago with the Swimmer’s Smoothie, which I still heartily recommend for those many people who struggle with early morning nausea or dislike of or difficulty in eating.
Proust wrote the most famous novel and anecdote about smells and their close association with involuntary memory in À La Recherche Du Temps Perdu when the smell and taste of a Madeleine cake and a cup of tea in a cafe prompts a sudden recall of a time from his childhood. Unlike Proust, I am reasonably sure that, despite my tendencies, this will be a single blog article, rather than seven books in length. Nonetheless you are reading this waffle instead of an ingredients list! Because I want to give you context. Cookery books don’t have context. They have themes, often in line with popular fads. meals in 37 Seconds, The Water and Sand Diet, etc. Context comes after you try out the recipe, and if it’s successful, you create the context for yourself. “Do you remember the meal we cooked that evening, the one with chorizo and chicken…?”
So it is that the smell and taste of my favourite post-long swim recovery meal fixes all these disconnected items in my mind. Once I began doing long training swims, this meal became to feel like a psychological as well as physiological demand, with that depth of associated memory of my parents and my early childhood. Those memories become additional seasoning to the recuperation from a long swim.
This meal is based around liver. You mutter in disgust. If you do, I’ll tell you why you do. It’s likely one of three reasons:
- You ate the wrong liver previously. Possibly pork, but more likely beef. Beef liver is tolerable for human consumption, but will never make a nice meal. Pork liver isn’t great either. Or your liver may not have been fresh.
- The liver was over-cooked. Over-cooked liver is common, rubbery at best, leathery at worst.
- You are one of those who can’t stomach the idea of offal (or are a vegetarian).
So I can address the first two points. If you are a vegetarian, I’m sure you will tell me in the comments what your equivalent favourite post long swim is food is. Risotto is not allowed as it’s baby food.
The liver choice for this recipe is lamb’s liver. It should go without saying that it needs to be fresh. You can freeze lamb’s liver, but don’t freeze it for longer than a month. Stale or frozen for too long liver will have a bitter taste that no cooking skills will over-come. Fresh liver should be a deep burgundy red. As it ages it will lose this rich colour. You could also use chicken liver, possibly, though I haven’t tried it. You’d need to saute the onion and pepper first though.
The easiest way to properly cook liver is a quick high heat sear, followed by a very low heat. The longer low heat will make the liver very tender. And yes, you really need to sear it. Maillard reaction, and all that.
Some people have a ridiculous fear of Hypervitaminosis A when it comes to liver, i.e. the toxic effects of eating too much liver. One meal of 200 grams / quarter of a pound per week is perfectly safe. You’d need to eat that amount every day for months for toxicity to develop. The additional new faddish fear of eating something which has “a build -up of toxins” belongs in the same category of nonsense as homeopathy, “detoxing”, anti-vaccination, climate change scepticism and reptilian overlords. Because a liver filters blood, does not mean it stores toxins. Otherwise you’d be checking in for a liver service once a year like you get your car filters changed. If you believe any of such waffle, I’d be happy to help you with a reading list that will bring you past witches, shamans and magic to understand how to properly evaluate and categorise bogus pseudo-scientific claims.
- Approximately 120 grams which is about four stupid ounces, of fresh lamb’s liver. (Three or four strips. Not chopped. I have no idea what chopped liver is except something said on American TV)
- One medium yellow or red onion, sliced
- A quarter each of a red and green pepper. Sliced thin
- Quarter litre of vegetable or chicken stock
- Tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce*
- Dave’s Ultimate Insanity Sauce
- Balsamic vinegar
- Garlic, two cloves (crushed)
- Salt and pepper
- Tablespoon-ish of a high smoke point oil like coconut or rapeseed. But yeah, olive or sunflower oil will do fine.
- Peas (fresh or frozen), broccoli, cut into small florets
- Swim at least 10,000 metres. This is marathon swimmer’s food, and not for lesser mortals. If you eat this after swimming a mere couple of k, I will come round your house and swim in your vegetable stock.
- Make the stock. Whatever.
- Chop the onions, peppers and crush the garlic. Same for the broccoli.
- Heat the oil in a hot frying pan**, and quickly sear both sides of the liver.
- Start drinking the beer. It was a long swim, you deserve it. You won’t be doing it again until next weekend anyway.
- Move the pan off the heat if you have an electric cooker and go get your “Not a Cold Water Swimmer” apron while the ring cools down. If you have gas, turn the ring down to the lowest setting and enjoy the control and response without moving the pan. Now we’re cooking with gas!***
- Add salt, pepper, onions, peppers and stock. Add optional shallots, mushrooms, peas or broccoli, as much or as little as you like. I typically fill a 28 cm diameter big saute pan with veg, so just add a lot. Forget the little.
- Add a good big splash of Worcestershire sauce and balsamic vinegar.
- Add ONE DROP of Dave’s Ultimate Insanity sauce***
- Cover, and cook at the lowest possible setting for about 25 minutes.
- Now start steaming the pealed potatoes, which will take 40 minutes. This step is here to prove that you should read through recipes before you start.
- Don’t forget that beer. Better drink the rest before it gets warm.
- Using Proper Butter****, salt and pepper, mash the steamed potatoes*****.
- Get another beer.
- Eat all the food. Drink the beer. The jus, i.e. the poncy term for the brown liquid stuff from the liver and vegetables******, is perfect over mashed spuds and veg.
** Here’s the thing my American friends. You expect us to learn your terminology. Me mammy would have thought a skillet was some kind of DIY tool me Dad didn’t have or know how to use.
***Cold water swimmers have an implicit grass of the Second Law of Thermodynamics, in the way that dogs understand Newton’s Laws when catching a frisbee. Warm water swimmers use electric cookers. Hence their aprons.
********* I love footnotes. I don’t use them enough. I reached peak footnote in this post by footnooting a footnote. That makes me happy. I have no idea what’s going on with the formatting in this post. I think I broke WordPress again.